Had Palette 2 for a few weeks. Can't get a good print.

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    Jonny Yeu

    Hello Mitchell, there’s a few things I’d like to ask about your recent prints:

    • Which printer are you using? There are instances where movement pauses are not needed and can cause calibration issues.
    • I think it would be best to restart from the beginning and share as much information as possible. Please factory reset your unit (http://mm3d.co/calibration-troubleshooting) then re-run the keychain calibration print. Please share a picture of the model and the bottom of your transition tower (http://mm3d.co/newkeychain-troubleshooting). Please note the pings for this print and share it with us.
    • Try the earbud case once more. Share pictures of the print along with the ping of the print. Only save the values if the majority of the print is in calibration.
    • Try a longer print afterwards, preferably one that is around 15 m of filament. Share pictures and pings for this print as well.
    • Please share pictures of your Palette and printer setup. There may be a physical issue causing the calibration issues as well.

    Once we can review this information, we can provide some feedback about next steps to take.

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    Mitch

    Ok Thankyou, I will work on getting you this information.

     

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    Redemptioner1

    @Mitchell

    Start with the 4 colour keychain twice at standard size, when they come out fine, increase the size of the 4 colour keychain by 200% and run it again, if this works out then increase the height of the keychain 500% but leave the LxW as 120%. If these all come out then start some other prints. Don't calibrate with 2 colours, use all 4, and run a design you know works colour printing wise and size it up for additional calibration prints, so basically the first 5 prints should all be the same model, all you are looking to do is increase the number of splices and increase the amount of material extruded while maintaining the same design. You need to get into multiples of 5m filament lengths in order to get feedback into the calibration settings. The more splices and the more colour changes in the first 5-10 prints the better. In saying that, don't make the first 10 prints too long, you want to get the feedback into the palettes "averaging" as soon as possible to improve the accuracy of each print.

     

    I would not expect things to be reliable and would suggest a return before you waste too much more of your time and filament. If I had the choice I would return all 5 units for a full refund, but alas, Mosaic have me by the balls as returning the units would result in too much in lost freight costs, suffice to say I would not recommend a Palette 2 to anyone.

     

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    Jonny Yeu

    The 4-color keychain was redesigned into a dual-color model to help with calibration (http://mm3d.co/dualcolor-keychain). As for prints after calibration, you're free to scale up the keychain but can also use other models with around 15 m of filament (~15 pings).

    Concerning our return policy and warranty, these can be found here: http://mm3d.co/p2warranty

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    Redemptioner1

    There is little point calibrating 2 of the 4 drives, have some sense........

    Using the 4 colour keychain is good because it has reasonable length segments of colour for each transition as well as making it easily to uniformly scale size and get consistent model for comparison even if not the same size.

     

     

     

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    Jonny Yeu

    To clarify, the keychain calibration helps to calibrate your Palette and printer (Loading Offset, Historical modifier). If you'd like to calibrate your Palette's drives, you would use the Palette Calibration feature (http://mm3d.co/calibrate-p2). The dual keychain model was redesigned to help with honing the Loading Offset based on the first transition: http://mm3d.co/newkeychain-troubleshooting

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    Redemptioner1

    Well you would know if you had done any substantial amountil of testing that the other 2 motor drives do have an effect on historical modifier as the filament on the outer feeds have a variance in length when cutter is triggered due to the feed path. Add to this the fact your hobb gears are not perfectly centred and every feed motor has and impact on averaging. Have a look yourself visually, load 4 lots of the same colour and type of filament and run a random short colour splice for 10m and look at the variances in the splice from one feed motor to another. It will be clear as day when you look at the variances in splice why you should calibrate all 4 drives at the same time, be it a manual calibration before printing or running your first calibration prints.

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    Jonny Yeu

    Although there is some variance in the drives, this is accounted for and calibrated before the units leaves our factory. If you're not finding success with your Palette units, it may be best to follow the calibration steps that we recommend and that users are finding success with.

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    Mitch

    Ok! sorry for a long time between my replies. I have managed to find time to complete all the calibration. 

    I am printing with a palette 2 and an Anycubic Chiron, my setup as requested is below:

    I started by resetting the palette as suggested. I also updated to the latest firmware with endurance mode. 

     

    The first keychain print completed perfectly as usual. 

    I noted down as many pings as I could. These Pings are as follows:

    Ping 2 - 98.01
    Ping 3 - 100.77
    Ping 4 - 103.18
    Ping 5 - 103.32
    Ping 6 - 102.10
    Ping 7 - 99.92

     

     

    So then I moved on to the earbud holder print and it was nearly perfect until the very last transition where there was a little bit of colour carried over on the last layer. 

    Pings:

    Ping 1 - 98.37
    Ping 2 - 99.09
    Ping 3 - 100.22
    Ping 4 - 101.49
    Ping 5 - 102.26
    Ping 6 - 101.92
    Ping 7 - 101.68
    Ping 8 - 101.51
    Ping 9 - 101.33
    Ping 10 - 101.67
    Ping 11 - 101.65
    Ping 12 - 100.95
    Ping 13 - 101.71
    Ping 14 - 100.90
    Ping 15 - 98.61
    Ping 16 - 99.02
    Ping 17 - 99.07
    Ping 18 - 98.95
    Ping 19 - 99.48
    Ping 20 - 101.17
    Ping 21 - 100.58
    Ping 22 - 98.16

    I saved these values and moved on to the 4 colour yin yang test as I did before. And again was mostly ok. 

    I didn't manage to catch all the pings but got what I could. 

    Ping 1 - 98.91
    Ping 2 - 96.22
    Ping 3 - 92.97
    Ping 4 - 95.51
    Ping 5 - 96.39
    Ping 6 - 94.86
    Ping 7 - 95.80
    Ping 8 - 96.73
    Ping 9 - Missed!
    Ping 10 - 96.71
    Ping 11 - 96.51
    Ping 12 - 97.76
    Ping 13 - 97.12
    Ping 14 - 97.06
    Ping 15 - 98.46
    Ping 16 - 98.12
    Ping 17 - 97.51

    Again I saved after this print as was majority ok.

    The first couple of layers were nowhere near perfect but it seemed to be ok towards the end. 

    This whole process is not too dissimilar to my previous attempts, and when I then go to do a print with lots of splices it comes out completely messed up. 

    From here should I try to do a large print or continue with small calibration prints, or does anything need to be changed?

    Thanks

     

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    Jonny Yeu

    Thanks for sharing all this information, Mitch. If these were sliced in CANVAS, could you please share one of these projects with us along with your printer profile? We'll take a look to see if we can adjust any of your settings to help with the overall printing. If you would like to send this privately instead of posting on this thread, please feel free to send it to support@Mosaicmfg.com.

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    Mitch

    These were all sliced in S3D and Chroma

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    Jonny Yeu

    In that case, would you mind sending me a factory file from one of these prints?

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    Mitch

    Hello, I have sent it to the support email address mentioned above. 

     

    Thanks

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