raft settings

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8 comments

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    Jonny Yeu

    Hi Kencfil, thanks for bringing this to our attention, we'll take a look at CANVAS's density and extrusion width settings to address this issue. We are aware of a bug in the print preview where the wrong extrusion width is displayed if it doesn’t think the raft paths are actually rafts (it[s being identified as the start sequence here). However, density should visibly affect the line spacing so there might be a slicing bug there. We'll look into this issue and update this thread if we find anything.

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    John Shaw

    I have a similar experience (but haven't tried setting adjustment). Rafts on my MakerBot 5th Gen are very effective for adhesion and easily removed from the object. I always used a raft and had on a few minor adhesion problems. In my limited experience with Canvas I've found the raft is not very effective on improving adhesion but is almost impossible to remove from the object. I'm interest in comments and improvements.

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    John Shaw

    Still fighting bed adhesion. The first picture is one I found that is similar to the first layer of the raft on am use to with the Makerbot 5th Gen. The Canvas raft is "frail" and doesn't have much contact to the bed. I have tried some setting changes but can't see much different in the Canvas raft as you can see around my last attempt in the second picture. failed in mid print.

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    Brandon Bloch

    Hi all,

    Apologies about this issue. We've identified a problem with the values for raft density and extrusion width being passed into the slicing engine (lower raft layer only—upper layer is working correctly) and are currently working on a fix for the problem. Please expect an update early next week that will address this! Again, we're very sorry about the confusion.

    Cheers,
    Brandon

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    Brandon Bloch

    Hi again,

    Just following up to let you know this issue has been resolved. Lower raft layer values should now be applied correctly. Please let us know if you still have any issues!

    Cheers,
    Brandon

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    John Shaw

    Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes. Any setting suggestions from your testing?

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    Brandon Bloch

    Hey John,

    I would recommend primarily tuning the extrusion width for the lower raft layer until you get nice thick lines—perhaps even combining with a small negative Z-offset, as your nozzle will only extrude well up to a certain thickness—and adjusting density as necessary. The upper raft settings, along with the vertical gap, should generally be tuned to optimize separability from the print rather than adhesion to the bed. Thus fairly thin lines (at most, your regular extrusion width) with around two-thirds density is a good place to start, and adjusting the vertical gap so that the start of the print lays down correctly but separates nicely from the raft. All of this is generally an iterative process that can vary greatly based on your printer and style settings, but you can usually test more than one of these settings per print independently of one another to optimize the tuning process a bit.

    I hope that helps!

    Cheers,
    Brandon

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    John Shaw

    I ran this test using a simple hollow object I had designed to demonstrate 3D printing for a friend. It turned out the curl from lack of be adhesion shown previously was fatal to my smart extruder+ so I chose this as an object with a small base so adhesion wouldn't be a threat. I adjusted the raft using the changes and advise above. The object isn't perfect but I am happy with the print and probably shouldn't have used red with white as a first attempt so a little bleeding is present (my printer illuminates the bed with red light so the overall tint in this picture is not really there). I am happy to report that the bed adhesion was so good that I had a very very hard time getting the transition block off the bed - by far the firmest bed adhesion I have ever had - so now I just have to back off a bit. Great progress. As an aside the object was 6 grams, the transition block 21 grams.

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