Install Palette 2S (Pro) Upgrade Kit

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    Alexander Scheiflinger

    Do the splice tubes from P2P splice core working with the new core?

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    keithywhites

    does this upgrade run with the same firmware, or is a reflash necessary?

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    BlueDust

    Per this video... Not the same Splice tubes, and Needs a different firmware.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8szqY3le60

     

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    Paul Kingwell

    There is a missing step, after installing the new splice core you should rotate the cutter wheel back to its original position before loading any filament.

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    Edward Boston

    Paul Kingwell - Just do a clear output after getting the unit back together and it will reset the cutter wheel.

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    Wmmc01

    Good video, however these instructions do not reference changing the Outgoing Driver Arm, nor the BUffer Switch. Obviously the parts are included, so I assume they too are replaced?

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    David Cantrell

    There are quite a few critical items missing from these instructions.
    1. I have one extra filament switch (for a total of 5). Do I assume correctly that I should not only replace the filament switches on drives 1-4, as documented here, but also the buffer switch? Nothing written about that.
    2. On replacing the filament switches on drives 2 and 3, as well as the filament buffer switch, there is no "if" about the cables being too short. They ARE too short, and no amount of masking tape is going to keep them from slipping into the hole. Would be great to include a link to instructions for removing the bottom cover to fish them out, which is what I'm about to have to try to figure out for the buffer switch cable. Hoping I can find that info somewhere and that I don't accidentally break my Palette 2 before it has the chance to become a 2s.

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    Steve Lionel

    Yes, the input switch cables are too short. To remove the back cover, use the included Torx driver and stick it deep into the four holes on the left and right front of the unit. The top two screws are deeper in than the bottom two (which are at about the level of the cutter wheel.) Unscrew the four screws and the guts of the unit will separate from the back cover. Note that the power and USB connections are attached to the back cover, so there will be a cable connecting them. I found it reasonable to sit the P2 upright in the cover while working on it.

    The connectors for the switches are tight - I had to use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry at each end until it came loose.

    There are spare switches and a spare drive arm in the kit.

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