Zeno LeHericy

Noticed an odd issue while running in Multi-Spool, and later confirmed it when running in a standard connected print....

I’ve got an over 360X360X400 mm printer, and like to print large parts (hopefully using P3P I’ll be able to make those...

Now that I’ve been printing with Palette for a bit, I’m finding that (at least for the stuff I print) I often have the...

Let me start by saying I think Palette 3 is a really cool device. My comments here on the forum generally center around my...

After some initial gremlins, I’ve gotten some pretty awesome test prints out of my Palette, Hopefully with a few more...

I recently got a Palette 3 pro, and was extremely disappointed in the screen from the first time I pressed a button. The...

I noticed after a long print that finished when I was away from home that the Palette 3 just had a white screen with no...

I have a brand new Palette 3 pro, and I love it! but unfortunately I have rather slow and intermittent DSL internet (only...

Once you have sliced the part in Canvas and hit “send to device” in the bottom right corner it will show up under “Local” on the P3. You can also start the print directly from the canvas3d.io site from the “setups” tab.

Main reason for this is that you’ll be disconnecting that tube at the start of every print for feeding, the velcro they provide makes this much easier and quicker. That being said, I use the bowden fitting on the input of my extruder drive to connect the tube as it makes a much more secure (and dimensionally accurate) connection to the tube. You’ll want to make sure to use high quality fittings if you do this, as the cheap ones can only be connected and disconnected a few times before being damaged.

From what I understand of your question, there are two scenarios: A) your printer has a direct-drive extruder (drive motor for the filament lives on the print head itself) with a bowden tube connecting the filament input of the printer to the top of that drive motor B) your printer has a bowden drive extruder (drive motor for the filament lives on the side of the frame) with a bowden tube connecting the filament OUTPUT of the drive to the top of the heater assembly. For Option A, you need to include the length of the tube on your printer to the “Outgoing Tube Length” of the palette during setup (the three default options are the tubes they provide, but it can be set to custom lengths for printers like this) For option B, you need to set the “Bowden Tube Length” during setup to match the distance from the drive gear inside the extruder to the tip of the nozzle If these are set properly, you should not run out of filament at the end of the print.

sort-of… the Palette will cut the last piece so it ends up just before the extruder drive wheel. You’ll need to remove that piece of filament, and the Palette will build the “initial” run of filament to feed the extruder again. You don’t need to remove anything from the Palette inputs though, I keep most of mine fed from a dry-box via PFTE tubes (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:511326...). THe palette will automatically re-check each input to make sure the material is still there, but you don’t need to remove it. you absolutely must unhook the outgoing tube from your extruder though, as the initial fed filament will stick out a bit for the first feeding of the extruder drive.

I don’t think it currently is, but I love this idea! Changing waste into a useful secondary product is an awesome idea!

While the real solution to this problem is a fully offline slicer that does not require uploads, it may be possible to do this by splitting the file strategically into multiple parts and uploading each one independently. Aligning them may be a challenge, but it might be possible to do if set up properly. Then again the same problem occurs on the other end of the process when the file has to be downloaded into the pallet… my current record for non palette printing is a 22gb G-Code file ( lots of Curves on a big printer that did not support arc commands) ironically the model file was very substantially smaller than the g code in that case

Set the “Bowden tube length” in canvas longer. Note: this number is different from the “outgoing tube length” and “loading offset” and it only affects the last piece of filament made.

Is that text applied as a stamp? or designed in to the model? If it’s designed in to the model, it looks like the model may have some issues causing it to have vertexes in the wrong place. That big island of material looks to be part of the text part body. I’ve noticed with several STLs I’ve gotten online that were originally digitized from vector art that there are tons of extra bits all over inside them, but if I design it from the beginning and make sure not to have extra bodies, it doesn’t do this at all.

I’ve started seeing this intermittently on my P3 - several prints failed when the filament necked down small enough that the extruder drive wheel couldn’t continue pulling the filament. I’ve done a bunch of splice tuning, and generally end up with values around 1-2, but every so often, it seems like the two drives in the Palette get out of sync and the outgoing drive pulls forward just a fraction before the incoming drive pushes, resulting in the splice necking down to about 1/2 diameter (the necked filament section is about 2mm long) On my most recent failed print, I noticed that this started to happen more often with one specific filament (still happens with the others, just happens more with this one) so will be doing some more testing. I’m wondering if somehow it’s not solidifying enough before getting advanced.

I think you’re right on as to what’s happening, it sees the extra retraction at the end and subtracts that, the problem being that it then thinks that the end piece is always long enough no matter what because of where the filament “ends”. You might be able to get it to work by adding 8-16 cm to the bowden length value, though I’m not sure how that will affect loading. The other way would be to just do a short automatic retract at the end of the print (1cm or so) to get the filament out of the hot end, then manually pull it the rest of the way after. not optimal, but should still work. Some firmwares also support automatic unload as a command that may or may not be caught by Canvas - Marlin uses M702 https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M702.htm... for this, which you can give a parameter to tell it how far to unload.