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Is there a setup guide for the Snapmaker 2.0 A350?

Snapmaker 2.0 hasn't been out long, is there any profiles for the A150, A250 and A350?

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Is there a set up guide for these models?

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Hey @alienstven, thanks for reaching out. While there is no preset printer profile for the Snapmaker 2.0 on CANVAS, you can create one by starting with a blank printer profile. You can find the definitions for the different settings here, as well as the style glossary here, which should be helpful.

If you are looking for setup instructions outside of CANVAS, please check out our first print article here which takes you through how to physically setup Palette on your printer, and start your first calibration print. Hope that helps and please let me know if you have any other questions.

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Did you ever end up having any luck? I’ve got a SnapMaker 2 A350 showing up in a couple of days and am seriously considering picking one of these up if it is possible to get them to work together well.

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Fair enough. Based on seeing that snap maker 2 is based on a major platform and seems to have octoprint support, I pulled the trigger to give it a shot. Having multi material capability will be huge for the usefulness of the printer.

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Totally agree. If I can get round to getting the system setup working, will be priceless in capability - so many different materials and colours to choose from now.

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Hey AJ, Good luck with the SM2. If you find a real good bit of software to make g-codes for the laser and 3D printing, please reply. The SM Luban is ?. Unfortunately I've not had time to play or look at the different setting and their output on sm2, bit difficult with flakey software.

I had a few attempts with the Palette 2 and printer trying to synchronise filament, but with device's in singularity - painstakingly difficult, so gave up and bought the S upgrade for palette 2 and bought the Hub S. As I before, I've just not had any free time to try them yet… As you still not finished my enclosure, side panels.

I really hope to get some time out, to have about 2 weeks of me time and get it up running.

The lamp is just to help me take the photo's.

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splicing works fine but I hit the following issues:

1) when making the waste tower, it prints EXTREMELY thin. Like the PETG is almost a “film”. I’m sure this is due to z-height but no idea how to correct within CANVAS cloud.

2) I feel like the touchscreen controller on the SM is override a bunch of setting with the SM2 (I use an a350). I set the bed for 80 and the nozzle for 250 but the bed continues to drop to 55.

3) No idea how to troubleshoot this z-height issue. I' use a glass bed and calibrated it manually. I also added some extra z-height (1.5mm) since I am printing with PETG.

4) PETG prints straight through Simplify3D or SM Luban work perfectly. No issues at all.

Thoughts……..?

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Hey David, you can set the Z offset in Canvas under the first layer tab of your project settings. If your first layer is extremely thin, it sounds like the nozzle is too far away from the bed and you need to decrease this value. If you're using PETG with Palette, also please remember to run splice tuning with your filament - we have some suggested splice settings here (mm3d.co/splice-tuning) - and apply these splice settings to your project in Canvas.

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@alina Thanks for the suggestion. I would have expected if it was too thin then I would have been too close to the print bed. My understanding is PETG doesn't like to be "mashed" into the print bed.

Splicing though works great! PETG -> PETG doesn't have any issues with 1|0|-2

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@winjet1 Sorry David, you're completely correct (I got my directions mixed up) - if the first layer is too thin, then the nozzle is too close to the bed, and you'll want to increase the Z offset.

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@alina No worries! I'm slowly getting through this haha.

Seems bed adhesion, like any and all prints, is still an issue, so fine-tuning the first layer is where I'm starting.

I set the first layer z to .02 and first layer speed to 35% (low and slow). After that I'll try increasing speeds. Temps are 250 nozzle and 70 bed with spring steel+glue. I'll try glass next once this test print finishes.

If things work, I'll post screenshots of the PETG settings.

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Sweet. The main problem I've had with PLA is under-extrusion, but I'm trying to increase the extrusion multiplier from 90 to 100% and see if that makes a difference. I also have only been able to get accessory mode to work. On the upside, it seems that the transition distance on the Snapmaker 2 can be DRASTICALLY shortened. Looking at my purge tower, it's completely clear within 1/10 to 1/3 of the tower layer.

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In regards to the SM2 (which I have the a350 as well), I couldn’t tell if you need the canvas hub as well to go with the palette 2s. I haven’t bought it but I’d rather not spend an extra 140$ if I don’t have to.

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Hey @ike, the Hub is optional - it will connect Palette to your printer, and allow you to access the Hub page online, from where you can send prints remotely and control your printer (i.e. bed temperature, extrusion). The Hub page is essentially OctoPrint with our custom plugins. You can also opt to create your own DIY Hub, following the instructions here (mm3d.co/canvashub-plugin).

Without the Hub, Palette is only connected to your printer via an outgoing tube, which feeds filament into your extruder. You will have to transfer the print files onto SD cards for Palette and your printer. If you are interested in the Hub, please check that your printer is compatible with OctoPrint and has a USB-B port (mm3d.co/printer-compatibility).

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So far I've only been able to get it working without the hub. I do have the hub, but have not been able to get a job started with it due to issues with loading filament. I'm working on solutions to that though.

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Since this is my first printer, I've found that I'm using the Octoprint hub for absolutely every single print (direct filament feed or using the Palette).

What Pi hardware version is being used? I'm considering getting a Pi v4 and loading CANVAS plugin on that for the speed.

My next adventure is trying to use the a350+hub+palette together to print in PETG with PLA supports. Anyone with hints on that........send them my way :).

Splice PLA <> PETG setting

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@winjet1 how did you manage filament loading with octoprint? I've been stuck on that.

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I'm not using Palette in that scenario and just using the HUB to print a filament directly into my printer.

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@ajh16, Maybe this will help

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Hello everyone, to say that I’m a novice to 3D printing is generous. Is anyone willing to share profile information so I can set-up my A350?

Thanks

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Start Code =

M104 S<TEMP>

M140 S<BED>

G28 ;home

G90 ;absolute positioning

G1 X-10 Y-10 F3000

G1 Z0 F1800

M109 S210;Wait for Hotend Temperature

M190 S60;Wait for Bed Temperature

G92 E0

G1 E20 F200

G92 E0

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End Code =

M104 S0 ;extruder heater off

M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)

G90 ;absolute positioning

G92 E0

G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure

G1 Z330 E-1 F3000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more

G1 X0 F3000 ;move X to min endstops, so the head is out of the way

G1 Y350 F3000 ;so the head is out of the way and Plate is moved forward

;End GCode end

M82 ;absolute extrusion mode

M104 S0

;End of Gcode

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This works great for my A-350 ... best of luck!

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Well done Bill. I still haven't got round to it yet, almost like nature is trying to distract me away from progressing ?. I will take note of your set up and give it a go at some point... May even book some time out of work, just so can have a play. ? Thanks for sharing!

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Thank you Bill

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Hi there

i also use a snapmaker A350 and a Palette 2s pro and the hub s but…no matter what i try, every time a frustrating result ... the colors mix :( The palette is calibrated several times with the same result, the printer is calibrated (the cube is printed very precisely) .... the keychain mixes the colors :( :( regardless of whether with the palette without a hub-s or with the hub-s. I tried to print 4 calibration cubes (one color each) .... it mixes at layer 2 at the latest. what am I doing wrong ??

Update (24.02.2021)

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first layer side

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mixed

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end of print

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Hey @rollityler, thanks for reaching out about this. Could you please reach out to us at support@mosaicmfg.com with the following information:

1. Your Canvas keychain project (mm3d.co/canvas-sharing); please make sure to share the model as well as the printer pofile

2. A photo of your Palette and printer setup, with a focus on the filament path as it enters the extruder

3. The ping data for your keychain (you can download the ping data from the Hub page)

Thanks in advance for putting this all together - it will help us figure out why your prints are not calibrated.

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Hi Alina

i’ve send an email with a onedrive link to your support mail, thank you ??

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Hi, I’m very new to 3dprinting and working towards getting an SM A350, just wondering a few things:

-How is the software workflow? Do I have to use Luban to design a print, then in Canvas paste the file and add color; or just Luban (which is what I’m hoping it is). Or something else entirely that I’m not thinking of.

-Is there direct compatibility, or do I have to manually set up a profile for the palette to work with the SM?

-Does the canvas software supplement octoprint?

-Does the new palette 3/3 pro support SM or do I have to get the palette 2/2 pro?

-What exactly does the canvas hub do for the pallet 2/2 pro and do I need it for campatibility?

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Hey Colin, in terms of the software workflow, you can use Canvas, Cura, S3D, KISSlicer, or PrusaSlicer as your slicer. Please note if you use a slicer other than Canvas you will need to use Chroma (mm3d.co/chroma), our post-processor.

There is no preset printer profile for the SM on Canvas, but you can create one starting from a blank profile (mm3d.co/add-printer-profile).

In order to use OctoPrint with the Palette 2 series, you would have to get the Hub or create your own DIY HUb (mm3d.co/canvashub-plugin) by downloading our plugins. Please note Palette 3 is not compatible with OctoPrint, but will come with its own printer control software.

Palette 3 (Pro) will be compatible with SM.

The Hub is essentially OctoPrint with our plugins, so you can control your printer and the print from a webpage. You do not need it to use Palette, but it will give you access to advanced features, such as "slow down during splce" (mm3d.co/advanced). Hope that helps!

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