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More ideas on dealing with color bleed?

So I know black-to-white color transitions are hard but I have run out of options. Printing this penguin model, I am now using variable transitions and set my black-to-white transition to 330mm (!) which is the maximum. I still get bad bleed with grey streaks. The photo I attach is not the best quality (taken during print) but one can see it clearly in the white infill and shell.

So my question is, what else can I do other than longer transitions. Will a higher quality nozzle help? Different kinds of filament?

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Hey @plofstof, could you share this CANVAS project once more, but select to share the printer and style profile as well? I would like to take a quick look at your project settings for this print. Thanks!

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HI @alina Thanks for asking. I apologise for only coming back now, but I want to retry some high contrast projects. Here is the project with all settings included - https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/662a6...

Let me know if you have any suggestions! :)

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No problem, thanks for sending that over. Hm, from this share link, the style profile says that the transition length is 130 mm between all colours. Did you set it to 330 mm whenever the outgoing colour was black?

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that's funny, I did.. maybe the profile changed since then. As a sidenote are there any other settings you would consider looking at other than transition length? I'll try to print again and make sure I use 330mm

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No worries - for colour bleed, the transition length is really all you should need to change. It is a matter of making sure the previous colour is properly "wiped" off on the tower (the amount of wipe is equal to the transition length). We have been printing with black and white successfully using variable transition lengths, so I think you should be able to as well - please let me know if it's not working on the next print!

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Sometimes the color bleed is not due to the transition length. If there are any imperfections in the filament path through the hotend, some leftover filament may get pushed to those nooks and crannies and reappear later. This is very common with bowden tubes, especially when the tube is not fully inserted until it is flush with the metal part of the neck. But even in that case if there is slack in the bowden fit connector, the tube may slip away creating a gap where molten filament can find its way there. So I always check for that on my printer from time to time. I had old filaments reappear even several days later after a lot of prints. And this happened even before I started using the Palette.

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I couldn’t attach a picture to my comment, so adding it here in an answer. This is an example of filament hiding in the gap where the Bowden tube interfaces with the hotend. You can see that the orange filament was still flowing through, but some time later that black filament will find its way out and into the print. That is why I do the cold pull to clean up the hotend and reseat the Bowden tube . The segment in the picture was the result of that cleaning.

update: I added a picture depicting where the filament is “hiding “

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