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It still does not work after a year and a half of trying ...

Hello,

I do not know where the old forum went, but many problems mentioned at the time are still not resolved for me.

Since last February I upgraded my CR10S with a new extruder (a much more accurate BMG clone of the original Creality extruder), I changed the Bowden tube to a Capricorn version, I calibrated the extruder correctly, redefined the% extrusion, improved my printing profiles and got into the habit of measuring the diameters of the filaments with a precision micro-meter (average of 3 measurements of a 20 cm end of filament) and recalibrated of Palette 2s.

While my classic impressions are perfect, the Palette 2s is still not functional and the calibration refuses to work to give usable results. Each time I try a calibration the Buffer poses a problem or a splice is bad. In these conditions the calibration has been !&&* for several months and the coil of filaments scrolls ...

If the 2-color keychain prints well, as soon as I switch to the 4-color version everything goes all over the place.

The buffer is often found full or the splice is bad and the problem is never in the same place.

If during this month of August I cannot find a way to make this overpriced equipment usable, I will resell it. This will prove that it is impossible to get it to work with any printer and that the promise to happen is not an honest one.

My patience has reached its limits.

cordially

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@picaboubx - So you can’t get it to even put out enough pla to get it to the extruder? Did you also have the issue where its not feeding the PLA enough and it either snaps or keeps hitting the buffer switch and causes an error?

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Hey @picaboubx, thank you for reaching out and sorry for this trouble. To get a better sense of the issues you are having, could you expand on what happens when you try to run the calibration keychain print as in mm3d.co/firstprint? If the issue is a broken splice, have you tried to run splice tuning (mm3d.co/splice-tuning) with your filament, and then input those splice settings on CANVAS? If the issue is a buffer error, could you tell us which error code it is? Buffer issues are most often related to a fast printing speed, but could have other causes. Any information, including pictures and/or videos, would be very helpful in letting us diagnose the issue. Thanks for your patience!

=== ===

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Hello

Regarding the basic calibration here is what I do and what happens:

1) Reset Palette 2S (since whenever I have time to take care of it to try to make it work, I start again from the base. For info, everything is up to date (Palette 2s and Octoprint with Palette and Canvas ) and the CR10S is under Marlin 1.1.8.

2) Calibration of the SPC and PPM Palette (see photo of the last one)

3) Adjustment of the splices which I put at +2 on the compression which seems to limit the problems without eliminating them completely.

4) Creation of the Gcode in Canvas online. (I have for now abandoned the solution with Simplify3D and Chroma)

5) Send to Octoprint from Canvas

6) Starting printing

7) The pallet is calibrated for the filament length for the first printing. I therefore stop it as soon as I see the new color coming out at the end of the nozzle. (Note that since yesterday and the update of Octoprint to 1.4.1, the Palette no longer stops the output of filament before I insert it in the extruder and which comes out constantly. I am therefore obliged to 'stop the procedure without being able to go to the next step. Another new problem ...)

8) I launch the impression as soon as this is done. Printing begins.

9) 1 time out of 2 this goes wrong because a splice is not done or very weakly.

I am here in the case of a 2 color version.

When I switch to the 4-color version, either it's a splice that doesn't work or, and it often happens now, it's the buffer that overfills and blows the connecting tube with the extruder.

No error message and if I don't stop it myself, disaster is guaranteed.

I specify that I print at 40mm / s which does not seem to me very fast especially with the update in 2s of the Palette that I made.

I redid all the settings and all the calibrations several times, telling myself that I forgot a few things, but nothing.

I even started to make very precise filament diameter measurements to have a perfect extrusion with the new BMG clone extruder that I installed. Not better

Here are the photos of the last 2 calibration printing that I was able to do without problems with the corresponding Pings. For now, I can only give you video extracts of the tests that I had done without success in February March on splice problems.

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Video extracts: (From these videos I simplified the installation of the Palette 2S (see photo))

https://video.ploud.fr/videos/watch/b8b0...

https://video.ploud.fr/videos/watch/6b2c...

https://video.ploud.fr/videos/watch/d7a9...

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@picaboubx You are lucky! I could NOT even get a SUCCESSFUL 2 colour print of the Calibration Keychain for 1 MONTH NOW.

Could you share you Settings on your 2 colour Calibration Keychain model (CKCM) for me to try?

by

I am EXTREMELY disappointed on ALL the EXPENSIVE Mosaic products and Mosaic Support so far.

They certainly do NOT perform up to the STANDARD or their CLAIMS.

There is NO PRODUCTIVE advice from Mosaic Support so far which HELPS.

There is NO IMPROVEMENT on my 3D-Print so far, in fact, it is TOTALLY HALTED.

At the moment I am still trying to answer Mosaic Support requests to print their CKCM BUT ALL FAILED!

Should it be that DIFFICULT to get ALL their GEARS to work together and print their CKCM FULLY & SUCCESSFULLY?

ALL THE GEARS except the 3DP are Mosaic PRODUCTS including the CKCM & SLICING SOFTWARE!

The WORST part is that the ENTIRE Print Process (Model > Colouring > Slicing > Slice File Transfer > Colour Control > Print Control) is UNCONTROLLABLE, UNPREDICTABLE, UNACCEPTABLE ......

despite of ALL COMPONENTS (except the 3D Printer) are Mosaic PRODUCTS.

I HAVE NOT STARTED TO PRINT ANYTHING OF MY OWN YET!

by

Here are my issues:

1. Slice file (gcode) was executed differently and showing different info on CVHS and

P2SP. STILL WHY? WHY? WHY?

2. Hence, I still believe either CVHS or P2SP or BOTH are FAULTY.

3. OR ELSE CV is NOT Slicing properly and does NOT generate CORRECT Slice file

(gcode).

4. I found 3 sets of info were different. STILL WHY? WHY? WHY?:

a. CV

b. P2SP

c. CVHS

5. P2SP – Finished Print EARLIER in BOTH PRINTS ( ISSUE: Finished print more than

20 minutes earlier than CVHS & 3DP)

6. CVHS & 3DP – continued to print, Finished Print (ISSUE: P2SP stopped feeding

filament to 3DP since P2SP has finished)

7. Check CKCM print - TOP (ISSUE: TOP part of the CKCM print was MISSING)

8. Check CKCM print - BOTTOM (ISSUE: Colour MISALIGNED)

by

A. Abbreviation:

CV – CANVAS

CVHS - CANVAS Hub S

P2SP - Palette 2S Pro

3DP – 3D-Printer

CKCM – Calibration KeyCchain Model

by

You can also email me on tang8555@gmail.com. Thx.

by

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(Update of 2020-08-06)

I complete my explanation of yesterday,

Here is a video showing the steps to start the calibration but which ends, as explained below by a filament that comes out constantly.

https://video.ploud.fr/videos/watch/2360...

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Hey @picaboubx, thanks for sharing all that with us. There are a few things to mention here before we go ahead and try printing a new calibration keychain (as in mm3d.co/firstprint):

  1. Just to make sure, is the firmware on Palette up to date? In the About section Palette, the version should read 9.2.9
  2. Although it is rare that we would ask you recalibrate the SPC and PPM values of Palette, your SPC/PPM values are within acceptable range, so that’s good. You should not have to recalibrate these values again.
  3. Can you share with me a CANVAS project (instructions here: mm3d.co/canvas-sharing) where you applied the splice settings that worked best for your filament? I want to make sure the settings are being applied correctly in the project (mm3d.co/splice-tuning).
  4. Could you update OctoPrint to the latest version (1.4.2)?
  5. Could you also share your keychain CANVAS project with me (instructions here: mm3d.co/canvas-sharing) so I can make sure the project settings for the calibration keychain are correct?
  6. Your ping data actually looks good, other than the fact that your initial pings are very low. This usually means your bed is not level and the nozzle is too close to bed, causing under extrusion, which leads to low initial pings. Please level the bed to help resolve this issue.

Thanks in advance for putting all of this together, and for your patience. If you’d like, you can send all of this to support@mosaicmfg.com and we can start a ticket there.

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Hello,

Here is what I can give you as info:

1. The Palette is up to date under version 9.2.9

2. I systematically redo the SPC and PPM calibration when I start my tests with the Palette again. The values ​​are always within these ranges.

3. I share with you the Canvas project of the 2-color keychain (the one I pictured for you above) : https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/00f04...

I also share with you the 4 colors (same photos) which did not work at all : https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/f99da...

4. I updated Octoprint last night. I did a test at the beginning of the afternoon. I'll keep you posted to follow.

Update 2020-08-07 14:50 following Octoprint 1.4.2:

Description of the 4 tests done this afternoon:

test 1 with model -> https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/f69f0...

The filament does not stop at the end of the Pallet outlet tube. Forced to stop printing manually via the pallet screen.

test 2 with model -> https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/00f04...

the filament stops 2cm before the end of the out tube. Impossible to catch it to put it in the extruder (unless I unbox the tube, pull some filament in the buffer and put the tube back). Stop printing manually via the pallet screen.

test 3 with model -> same as test 2 but adding 3cm in the Pallet parameters of the output tube, ie 83cm.

The filament does not stop at the end of the Pallet outlet tube. Forced to stop printing manually via the pallet screen.

5. I share with you the last test model (the one from the last video). The other keychains are above in 3. : https://share.canvas3d.io/projects/f69f0...

6. My Z Offset is automatically done thanks to TouchMi (a French open source system similar to BL Touch). The thickness of the first layer is always good and is even in some cases a bit too heavy, that's why I have a Z Offset of -0.25 in my slicer settings in Canvas.

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Hey @picaboubx, thanks for putting all that together. If there is not enough filament at the end of the tube, it is safe to pull some out manually to insert into your extruder - the encoder wheel will detect this. However, if filament is feeding non-stop (unfortunately, I could not access the video you attached of this, could you try the link again?), then there may be an issue with your encoder wheel or your homing switch. To check the homing switch, can you go to Settings --> About --> Next --> Next and check that the homing switch says "Pressed" when there is filament passing through it versus "Not Pressed" when there is no filament running through it?

To check the encoder wheel, can you go to Settings --> About and find the value for "encoder" - jot down this value and let me know what it is. Then, please take off the acrylic top cover and physically spin the "scroll" wheel 360 degrees while watching this "encoder" value change (I know this can physically be a bit tricky). Let me know how this value changed after rotating it 360 degrees - did it go from 0 to a value in the 2000's? Also please let me know what your current SPC and PPM values are (if they are different from the photo above) - you do not need to recalibrate these values every time you print. If you get a value between 2.4-2.5 for SPC and between 38-39 for PPM, please leave these values.

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Hello again, or good evening here

Here is the information requested in photos:

The switches seem to work (on the 2 photos 1 and 2 which are those concerned by the 2 color calibration). the 3 and 4 are also good.

The value of the encoder wheel varies between -1, 0 and 1 (3 photos)

The value after a 360 ° turn with my finger (therefore with low accuracy) is 2273. SPC and PPM not modified. (1 photo)

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Thanks for sending that over. The switch concerned is actually the homing switch (not the switches at the input), which is located right below the cutter wheel. It looks like your encoder wheel is behaving normally, so I will send you a replacement homing switch (please provide me with your shipping address). While you are waiting for this replacement switch, could you take out the encoder wheel, clean it with rubbing alcohol, and place it back in (you can use the instructions here to do so)? Although your encoder wheel is behaving normally, I want to make sure there is no residue on it that may be causing it to misbehave sometimes. After you clean this wheel and replace your homing switch, could you please:

  1. Reset Palette to factory defaults (Settings —> Preferences —> Reset).
  2. Slice the calibration keychain on CANVAS again, but please turn off supports, set your extrusion multiplier to 100 %, and apply the splice settings you found to work in this project as in mm3d.co/splice-tuning (I noticed in your keychain project you had supports on and a low extrusion multiplier value). You can share the project here first so we can make sure it’s correct before trying to print it again.
  3. Please make sure your Palette and printer setup is correct. You can send photos of the setup here, with a focus on the filament path as it enters your extruder. The outgoing tube should not have any bends in it, and the filament should always be in a constrained path (always either in the tube or in the extruder).
  4. Go ahead and print a new calibration keychain, taking note of the ping data for this print, as you did before. Please take a photo of the print and tower once more (top and bottom).
  5. If this print is successful, please try the earbud or coaster prints as in step 8 of mm3d.co/firstprint (instead of another keychain).
  6. Let us know how this all goes!

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Bonjour @Alina,

Je vous ai envoyé mes coordonnées sur l'email support@mosaicmfg.com

Notez que je comprends que vous parlez du commutateur qui est dans le tampon?

Vous devez savoir que je l'ai remplacé lors de la mise à niveau avec le kit 2S.

Ce n'est donc plus l'original.

Here are also some pictures of the installation:

However, I have no way of making sure there is no elbow for the outlet tube. But the filament is not crushed or pinched there at any time. This circulates freely to the end of spinning tester then to the extruder.

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Picaboubx will be eternally grateful.
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